FunkyStickman
November 26th, 2008, 4:57pm
Well, it was bound to happen... after reading up on all the web information on Cobalts/Ions with ignition switch problems, I've assembled a quick how-to guide to troubleshoot the three possible causes, and basics on how to fix them.
You can thank me later.
Q: My key won't turn off or remove, and I can't start the car. Oh yeah, and the car's an automatic.
A. Most likely this is caused by a worn/broken auto shifter cable. The car thinks it's not in Park, and therefore won't let you stop it, start it, or remove the key. There's a tiny access door under the ignition switch, on the bottom of the steering column. Remove the tiny door, and there should be a plunger inside that will release the key when you press it. Kick yourself for buying a car with an auto, and go fix the shifter cable.
Q: My car won't start (sometimes on cold days), but if I wait 15 minutes it starts up just fine.
A: This is caused by the ignition electrical switch going bad. It has tiny resistors in it that the car uses for the anti-theft system. If the resistors get too cold or break, the car thinks it's been stolen, and you can't start it. The actual switch is about $40 from the dealer. The ignition switch is a black plastic unit that bolts to the left side of the ignition cylinder case. It's got some wires plugged into it, and it's pretty easy to get to and replace. However, you can't just swap it out, due to the VATS system. If you replace the ignition switch you have to go through the PassLock re-learn process, which takes about 30 minutes.
Q: My car won't turn off, but it runs and starts fine, just can't turn the key to "Off"
A: This is what happened to me. This was caused by a broken ignition lock. When one of the pins or guides breaks, the lock's "bolt" doesn't fully retract, and you can't turn the car off or remove the key.
I knew the ignition lock was the culprit, and I was determined to get it out without having to replace the entire lock housing... you can remove and replace just the lock if you can get it out. The dealership will charge you upwards of $500 for this. Here's how it went down:
Yes, I know the carpets are dirty.
http://jeffhendricks.net/images/gutted-dash.jpg
I removed most of the lower dash panels so I could drop the column down as far as possible, in order to get the plastic bits off. The one piece of plastic surrounding the cylinder lock was very difficult to get off, considering the key was still stuck in the ignition! Eventually I yanked the key out, and the plastic came off without any fuss.
To remove the lock, you have to remove the wiper switch, and all the plastic off the column. Once you remove the switch, you can clearly see two holes on top of the lock casing. I took an allen wrench and poked the tab inside the hole, which lets the lock slide out about a quarter inch. Since mine is still jammed, I couldn't rotate it well at all... I had to stick a knife into the key side of the lock to push the pin spring retainer down, and then I could turn it enough to press the second release tab through the little holes.
Here's the lock cylinder coming out.
http://jeffhendricks.net/images/lock-in-case.jpg
Here's the empty cylinder case. The black thing hanging by wires is the ignition switch. In this case, I didn't need to remove it, but I was curious...
http://jeffhendricks.net/images/ign-cyl-case.jpg
Here's the actual ignition lock, by itself. You can see how the plate that holds the springs in has popped up (and won't stay down).
http://jeffhendricks.net/images/ign-lock.jpg
This is the actual part I will be replacing, it cost me $68 shipped from carlocksandkeys.com Home Page - Car Keys & Car Lock (www.carlocksandkeys.com)
I'll have a pic up when I put it all back together.
Oh yeah, here's all the dash pieces in the back seat... and now I've got a true "Boost"er seat!
http://jeffhendricks.net/images/booster-seat.jpg
You can thank me later.
Q: My key won't turn off or remove, and I can't start the car. Oh yeah, and the car's an automatic.
A. Most likely this is caused by a worn/broken auto shifter cable. The car thinks it's not in Park, and therefore won't let you stop it, start it, or remove the key. There's a tiny access door under the ignition switch, on the bottom of the steering column. Remove the tiny door, and there should be a plunger inside that will release the key when you press it. Kick yourself for buying a car with an auto, and go fix the shifter cable.
Q: My car won't start (sometimes on cold days), but if I wait 15 minutes it starts up just fine.
A: This is caused by the ignition electrical switch going bad. It has tiny resistors in it that the car uses for the anti-theft system. If the resistors get too cold or break, the car thinks it's been stolen, and you can't start it. The actual switch is about $40 from the dealer. The ignition switch is a black plastic unit that bolts to the left side of the ignition cylinder case. It's got some wires plugged into it, and it's pretty easy to get to and replace. However, you can't just swap it out, due to the VATS system. If you replace the ignition switch you have to go through the PassLock re-learn process, which takes about 30 minutes.
Q: My car won't turn off, but it runs and starts fine, just can't turn the key to "Off"
A: This is what happened to me. This was caused by a broken ignition lock. When one of the pins or guides breaks, the lock's "bolt" doesn't fully retract, and you can't turn the car off or remove the key.
I knew the ignition lock was the culprit, and I was determined to get it out without having to replace the entire lock housing... you can remove and replace just the lock if you can get it out. The dealership will charge you upwards of $500 for this. Here's how it went down:
Yes, I know the carpets are dirty.
http://jeffhendricks.net/images/gutted-dash.jpg
I removed most of the lower dash panels so I could drop the column down as far as possible, in order to get the plastic bits off. The one piece of plastic surrounding the cylinder lock was very difficult to get off, considering the key was still stuck in the ignition! Eventually I yanked the key out, and the plastic came off without any fuss.
To remove the lock, you have to remove the wiper switch, and all the plastic off the column. Once you remove the switch, you can clearly see two holes on top of the lock casing. I took an allen wrench and poked the tab inside the hole, which lets the lock slide out about a quarter inch. Since mine is still jammed, I couldn't rotate it well at all... I had to stick a knife into the key side of the lock to push the pin spring retainer down, and then I could turn it enough to press the second release tab through the little holes.
Here's the lock cylinder coming out.
http://jeffhendricks.net/images/lock-in-case.jpg
Here's the empty cylinder case. The black thing hanging by wires is the ignition switch. In this case, I didn't need to remove it, but I was curious...
http://jeffhendricks.net/images/ign-cyl-case.jpg
Here's the actual ignition lock, by itself. You can see how the plate that holds the springs in has popped up (and won't stay down).
http://jeffhendricks.net/images/ign-lock.jpg
This is the actual part I will be replacing, it cost me $68 shipped from carlocksandkeys.com Home Page - Car Keys & Car Lock (www.carlocksandkeys.com)
I'll have a pic up when I put it all back together.
Oh yeah, here's all the dash pieces in the back seat... and now I've got a true "Boost"er seat!
http://jeffhendricks.net/images/booster-seat.jpg