Hawk Performance pads

[Cat Ion]

Ok, so now that I have a few miles on them, I have to say I'm impressed. They seem to react just as well as the OEM pads. I had no problems getting the OEM pads to stop this car, but I was fed up tired of the brake dust coating my rims in a day or two after cleaning. I purchased the Hawk pads and put them on all 4 corners. It took a little time to bed them in properly. I feel that is a must on any new set of pads, to make sure you don't nail them hard from the beginning. I now have full stopping power and no brake dust. It's been nearly 2 weeks since I cleaned my car last and still have silver metallic rims instead of gunmetal black. I'm a happy camper!!:bigthumb:

[bc3tech]

mind posting how much you got them for? if you liked the vendor, worth giving them a plug as well :) and if not, hey voice that too :D

[Cat Ion]

Bought them through Summit for $120 shipped for all 4 corners. They ended up backordering the fronts for a few weeks (supplier issue), but Summit was on the phone calling me and updating me enough to keep me docile. Very happy with the pads! Very happy with Summit racing customer service!

[badassgixxer05]

are those ok to use with stock rotors??

[Doc]

I don't why they wouldn't work with the stock rotors. These might be the next set of pads I get. I've heard good things about them.

[Cat Ion]

I agree. No need to worry about them on OEM rotors. I changed my pads out for the brake dust problems only. I changed the rotors out for the aesthetics of Cross drilling and the effectiveness of slotting. Now it looks aggressive and bites down like a hungry mean dog. Oh, and no brake dust! :werd:

[bc3tech]

i like this talk about stopping power - a big brake kit for my fronts is something i've had my eye on for a while now. just fucking expensive :(

[Cat Ion]

I think SSBC makes a kit for the Ions. I want to say that Baer makes one too. I had considered it, but my car stops so well right now.

[bc3tech]

I think SSBC makes a kit for the Ions. I want to say that Baer makes one too. I had considered it, but my car stops so well right now.
yup the SSBC one's the one i have my eye on, from Gravana... but as i said, expensive as fuck.

[Cat Ion]

Make it go fast first, then get scared when it don't stop fast enough, then you'll find a way to afford them!

[TheWastedYears]

I like my Hawk pads. Not as much initial bite as OEM, but the reduction in brake dust makes it worth it.

[bc3tech]

Make it go fast first, then get scared when it don't stop fast enough, then you'll find a way to afford them!
already have that experience.... putting 18" rims on a car and not upgrading the brakes was a lawsuit waiting to happen for the dealer i bought the car from, IMO.

[badassgixxer05]

I don't why they wouldn't work with the stock rotors. These might be the next set of pads I get. I've heard good things about them.

I was just scarred if they had too much bite that they would heat up and warp the oem rotors... good to know they will work fine though.. im def considering the swap... i washed my car yesterday and my front rims looked powdercoated black instead of polished.. stock pads are messy as all fuck..

[Cat Ion]

Warping happens from 2 main things: Improperly torquing your rims on and hard stops and then holding the brakes. Meaning your traveling high speed, slam on them to a stop and keep the brakes applied. The hot pads then transfer a small amount of pad material to the rotor. Then the next time you apply the brakes it feels warped. Sometimes simply getting up to speed and applying the brakes aggressively fixes that by scrubbing that stuff off. Just remember to get off the brakes and ride long enough for them to cool back down. I read an article pertaining to this very subject. Many people think they have warped rotors and pay the money to get them straightened. Most of the time all they did was make the rotor thinner and not fix the problem. The problem can be fixed by learning how to clean the transfer material off the rotor.

[Paulumbo]

Don't forget with winter looming over many of us that water on a hot rotor can cause warping as well. I liken it to sticking a hot frying pan in cold water-it can do the same thing to rotors-all rotors are is a big heat sink, they convert motion into heat, that's all they do.

bc3-if you're thinking of upgrading, you may wanna consider doing rears, especially if you have a tendency to get nasty in corners. Going with a rotor the same diameter (never bigger than the front) allows some of the rear brake to pick up SOME of the braking work load. This was a hard lesson for me to learn after spinning a car off course eventually trashing it beyond recognition. The CTS-V is a good example, the rotor size is 14 inch (iirc) front and rear, and under braking, the car feels very well balanced and you actually get less dive by keeping front and rear rotor diameters the same size. I know one of the upgrades I'm gonna make here soon are brakes.

[bc3tech]

yeah i just know that the rears don't provide much in terms of braking - and i don't do a whole lot of twisties... yet... :up_to_som:
but i definitely notice the lack of stopping power even w/o the procharger for extra go-go, the 18" rims w/ those cookie-size rotors are just disasterous.

[Cat Ion]

Don't forget with winter looming over many of us that water on a hot rotor can cause warping as well. I liken it to sticking a hot frying pan in cold water-it can do the same thing to rotors-all rotors are is a big heat sink, they convert motion into heat, that's all they do.

bc3-if you're thinking of upgrading, you may wanna consider doing rears, especially if you have a tendency to get nasty in corners. Going with a rotor the same diameter (never bigger than the front) allows some of the rear brake to pick up SOME of the braking work load. This was a hard lesson for me to learn after spinning a car off course eventually trashing it beyond recognition. The CTS-V is a good example, the rotor size is 14 inch (iirc) front and rear, and under braking, the car feels very well balanced and you actually get less dive by keeping front and rear rotor diameters the same size. I know one of the upgrades I'm gonna make here soon are brakes.

Man, I live in Arizona......winters ain't shit! Guess I have to live somewhere that actually has 4 seasons to know what you're saying. I haven't driven in snow since Christ was a Corporal.

[Redline485]

anyone have crossed drilled slotted rotors and use the oem pads? is it better to go with better pads like the hawks?

[Paulumbo]

Man, I live in Arizona......winters ain't shit! Guess I have to live somewhere that actually has 4 seasons to know what you're saying. I haven't driven in snow since Christ was a Corporal.

:cussing: I hate Michigan........

[FunkyStickman]

I read an article pertaining to this very subject.

You read that from James Walker at SPS, didn't you? I remember reading that article too. Freaking awesome... also, don't do hard stops and then jam the E-brake, same effect. And if you have rear drums, it's even worse... jamming the e-brake on hot rear drums will cause them to go out of round!

[rlinbatonrouge]

I need new pads. Maybe this is the route to go. My cost on OEM pads front and rear is $190

[rlinbatonrouge]

I can't find a listing for these anymore. Can anyone supply a link or a part number?

[MGM1979]

http://www.dezod.com/cat_brake_pads4.cfm

[BlackChrome]

Haha, "old thread warning" awesome! Well it's not that old, and I'm sure people will still check this out from time to time, so I'll go ahead...

I got the Hawk pads and powerslot rotors from Dezod (awesome vendor) when my stockers wore out at about 20K miles. Well, the hawks were really nice, but they have finally started to wear out. My car started making the squeal sound from the sensors yesterday. These were the longest lasting set of brakes I have ever had. My car has 70k+ miles now! I will probably buy another set of hawks from dezod.