bc3tech
July 31st, 2008, 10:13pm
Original author: U-RaceCars @ redlineforums.com
Ok,here we go.
Tools...
Safety glasses/face shield, gloves,(and welding safety for weld in)
Tire pressure guage
3/8" wrench and socket.
3/16" Allen key/T handle
15mm socket (for seat bolts,cordless electric impact works great)
T45 (for seat belt bolt,not 100% sure that it was a 45 but I think so)
Hammer
Gasket scraper/Chissle
Caulk gun and a tube of Black Body seam sealer (available at any auto body supply or most likely any auto parts store)
Vice grips (needle nose types)
3 small jacks (Scissor, Bottle , or Screw jacks are fine)
Marker (silver sharpie is great, or bright color to show up on black, or you can use an Awl/Scribe)
Drill with 3/8" chuck(14v min. cordless)
Drill bits (1/8", 1/4", 38", 25/64" or Unibit)
Floor Jack
Panel Popper tool (for weld in only)
Small Grinder (for weld in only)
And most important a flat level 16' X 16' area and some Scale stands or blocks or ramps to put the car on level and elevated with all 4 wheels loaded. A Front end Alignment rack or drive on ramp type lift is ideal.
Installation:
{Preparation}
Step 1...set tire pressure (32 front and 30 rear is where I like it)
Step 2...Remove seats.Disconnect the seatbelt light wire harness under the seat.Slide foreward and remove two 15mm. bolts behind each seat,then slide seat 1/2 way back and lean the seat foreward, then lift up.
Step 3...Remove plastic seat belt bolt and sill cover and T-45 seat belt bolts.
Step 4...Raise and level chassis.
Step 5... (FOR WELD IN ONLY,if not welding skip and move to the next step.)Remove Rocker panel moulding/Ground fx.Use a panel popper tool and pry the center portion of the clips out that hold the moulding in place. There are 1 in each wheel opening at the bottom near the moulding,and several along the bottom of the moulding.(make sure you wear glasses for this as mine were full of dirt,sand and gravel)
Step 6...Remove Parking brake line fasteners located on the undercarriage just in front of the rear wheels. These clips were a little tough to get off without a special tool, but they are not re-used or replaced, so I just broke them off with a hammer and gasket scraper/chissle. While you have the hammer and scraper, there is a jiont with a thick line of body seam saeler which will obstruct the tube from seating flat against the rear floor-pan. Hold the Subframe connector in place to locate the section of seam sealer that's in the way and remove it with scraper.
{Subframe Rail, Start on the Passenger side}
Step 7...Position one jack near each wheel and one in the middle and hold the Subframe connector in place, it should be located snug against the side pinch weld and flush up against the jack box in the front and flat on the floor pan,so your going to push up and out, and then slide foreward against the jack box.Now position the jacks lightly under the tube to hold it in place.Jack the middle 1st then 1 just after the bend near the jack box but not obstructing the mounting plate, then 1 in the rear. Now clamp the tube to the pinch weld with ViseGrips,make sure it's nice and flush all the way down the side. The middle jack should then be moved to the center of the large 4 bolt center mounting plate and jacked up firmly,then snug up the front and rear also.
Step 8...Now you have them in place, take your marker and mark all holes to be drilled.Draw a circle in each hole with an X like a cross-hair to mark the center.Use an Awl or punch to center for the pilot drill bit if desired.(For weld in, mark a 1" spot every 6" on the inside of the pinch weld all the way up the side where the tube has contact.)
Step 9...Lower the jacks enough to remove the Subframe connector and remove it for now.
{Drilling... CAUTION!!! WIREING HARNESS ON BOTH SIDES AND BRAKE LINES ON DRIVERS SIDE!!!}
Step 10...Make sure the carpet is pulled back away from where you are drilling.Make sure to take great care to secure the wireing harness pulled back out of the way towards the center of the car for drilling clearence. Drill out your holes starting with the 1/8" pilot and gradually working your way up to 25/64" (if you don't have a 25/64" bit use a unibit or the 3/8" bit to ream out the hole and remove any burrs) Test a bolt in each hole to make sure the bolt slides in and out freely without getting hung up.
Step 11...(FOR WELD IN ONLY) Use small grinder and clean all paint/primer from the pinch weld at each of the 1" marks every 6" up the pinch weld. It's good to use a weld through primer on these spots as once installed,they won't be accessable for corrosion resistance.
Step 12...(This was the most difficult part for me) Take your bolts and get the 4 Allen key'ed studs and drop them through the frame in front and back. There are access holes in the frame next to the holes you drilled. Manipulate the stud inside the frame until you get them to drop into place. (The fronts can be a little tricky if you have short stubby fingers like me! But keep with it for a few minutes and you'll get them in.) Now take your Frame connector and repeat step 7, and bolt in place with the 3/8" wrench and Allen wrench. (You don't need the Fender washers for the front and rear mounts,only the center plates need washers.) Now drop the center bolts through from inside the car with one Fender washer on each bolt, 4 through the rear floor pan and one through the front seat cross member. Now secure and torque all bolts with one Fender washer on the bottom of the middle 5 bolts.
{Drivers Side...CAUTION!!! BRAKE LINES AND WIREING HARNESS!!! USE EXTREME CAUTION DRILLING TO AVOID DAMAGING THESE!!! A drill stop is a good Idea.}
Repeat steps 7 through 12 on the drivers side. The only difference are the brake lines under the car.
For the brake lines you need to slide in the large 4 bolt mounting plate from the side. I was able to unfasten the clip that holds the brake lines up near the 4 bolt plate, and gently pry them down a little bit for clearence. (you may want to use a drill stop to avoid them when drilling.)
For the Wireing Harness inside,there are tabs that hold the harness down, unfasten them and move the harness towards the middle of the car out of the way, You may need to duct tape them back or put a metal plate(like a drywall spreader scraper knife) in between them for protection.
Step 13...(For weld in only) After they are bolted good and tight,take your ViseGrips and clamp the tube to the pinch weld in between the spots you have grinded for welding. Now hammer the pinch weld up against the tube until it sits flush at each of the 1" spots that will be stitch welded every 6" and weld 1" every 6" down the sides. Clean up your welds and spot prime,and allow adequate time for primer to dry.
Step 14...Use Caulk gun with black Body seam sealer(if you can't find Black seam sealer,you may want to paint it with "Black Satin" paint) and replace the factory seam sealer that you removed,then seal all the way up each side around the tubes and in between the pinch weld. Make sure that it is sealed well around the mounting plates to prevent corrosion around the mounting holes that you have drilled, also a little primer around the hole is good. This will help prevent water and dirt from getting packed in betwneen and help prevent corrosion,plus it helps quiet the ride. Also it would be even better to apply rubberized undercoating on top after your done for greater protection.
Reverse steps 6 through 1 , Use the new P-brake fastener tabs for # 6.
Now paint with Black Satin and your Done!
Hope I didn't miss anything, If you figure out any other ideas or find I missed something,please let me know. Feel free to call if you have any questions or trouble.
Thanks and good luck!
Ok,here we go.
Tools...
Safety glasses/face shield, gloves,(and welding safety for weld in)
Tire pressure guage
3/8" wrench and socket.
3/16" Allen key/T handle
15mm socket (for seat bolts,cordless electric impact works great)
T45 (for seat belt bolt,not 100% sure that it was a 45 but I think so)
Hammer
Gasket scraper/Chissle
Caulk gun and a tube of Black Body seam sealer (available at any auto body supply or most likely any auto parts store)
Vice grips (needle nose types)
3 small jacks (Scissor, Bottle , or Screw jacks are fine)
Marker (silver sharpie is great, or bright color to show up on black, or you can use an Awl/Scribe)
Drill with 3/8" chuck(14v min. cordless)
Drill bits (1/8", 1/4", 38", 25/64" or Unibit)
Floor Jack
Panel Popper tool (for weld in only)
Small Grinder (for weld in only)
And most important a flat level 16' X 16' area and some Scale stands or blocks or ramps to put the car on level and elevated with all 4 wheels loaded. A Front end Alignment rack or drive on ramp type lift is ideal.
Installation:
{Preparation}
Step 1...set tire pressure (32 front and 30 rear is where I like it)
Step 2...Remove seats.Disconnect the seatbelt light wire harness under the seat.Slide foreward and remove two 15mm. bolts behind each seat,then slide seat 1/2 way back and lean the seat foreward, then lift up.
Step 3...Remove plastic seat belt bolt and sill cover and T-45 seat belt bolts.
Step 4...Raise and level chassis.
Step 5... (FOR WELD IN ONLY,if not welding skip and move to the next step.)Remove Rocker panel moulding/Ground fx.Use a panel popper tool and pry the center portion of the clips out that hold the moulding in place. There are 1 in each wheel opening at the bottom near the moulding,and several along the bottom of the moulding.(make sure you wear glasses for this as mine were full of dirt,sand and gravel)
Step 6...Remove Parking brake line fasteners located on the undercarriage just in front of the rear wheels. These clips were a little tough to get off without a special tool, but they are not re-used or replaced, so I just broke them off with a hammer and gasket scraper/chissle. While you have the hammer and scraper, there is a jiont with a thick line of body seam saeler which will obstruct the tube from seating flat against the rear floor-pan. Hold the Subframe connector in place to locate the section of seam sealer that's in the way and remove it with scraper.
{Subframe Rail, Start on the Passenger side}
Step 7...Position one jack near each wheel and one in the middle and hold the Subframe connector in place, it should be located snug against the side pinch weld and flush up against the jack box in the front and flat on the floor pan,so your going to push up and out, and then slide foreward against the jack box.Now position the jacks lightly under the tube to hold it in place.Jack the middle 1st then 1 just after the bend near the jack box but not obstructing the mounting plate, then 1 in the rear. Now clamp the tube to the pinch weld with ViseGrips,make sure it's nice and flush all the way down the side. The middle jack should then be moved to the center of the large 4 bolt center mounting plate and jacked up firmly,then snug up the front and rear also.
Step 8...Now you have them in place, take your marker and mark all holes to be drilled.Draw a circle in each hole with an X like a cross-hair to mark the center.Use an Awl or punch to center for the pilot drill bit if desired.(For weld in, mark a 1" spot every 6" on the inside of the pinch weld all the way up the side where the tube has contact.)
Step 9...Lower the jacks enough to remove the Subframe connector and remove it for now.
{Drilling... CAUTION!!! WIREING HARNESS ON BOTH SIDES AND BRAKE LINES ON DRIVERS SIDE!!!}
Step 10...Make sure the carpet is pulled back away from where you are drilling.Make sure to take great care to secure the wireing harness pulled back out of the way towards the center of the car for drilling clearence. Drill out your holes starting with the 1/8" pilot and gradually working your way up to 25/64" (if you don't have a 25/64" bit use a unibit or the 3/8" bit to ream out the hole and remove any burrs) Test a bolt in each hole to make sure the bolt slides in and out freely without getting hung up.
Step 11...(FOR WELD IN ONLY) Use small grinder and clean all paint/primer from the pinch weld at each of the 1" marks every 6" up the pinch weld. It's good to use a weld through primer on these spots as once installed,they won't be accessable for corrosion resistance.
Step 12...(This was the most difficult part for me) Take your bolts and get the 4 Allen key'ed studs and drop them through the frame in front and back. There are access holes in the frame next to the holes you drilled. Manipulate the stud inside the frame until you get them to drop into place. (The fronts can be a little tricky if you have short stubby fingers like me! But keep with it for a few minutes and you'll get them in.) Now take your Frame connector and repeat step 7, and bolt in place with the 3/8" wrench and Allen wrench. (You don't need the Fender washers for the front and rear mounts,only the center plates need washers.) Now drop the center bolts through from inside the car with one Fender washer on each bolt, 4 through the rear floor pan and one through the front seat cross member. Now secure and torque all bolts with one Fender washer on the bottom of the middle 5 bolts.
{Drivers Side...CAUTION!!! BRAKE LINES AND WIREING HARNESS!!! USE EXTREME CAUTION DRILLING TO AVOID DAMAGING THESE!!! A drill stop is a good Idea.}
Repeat steps 7 through 12 on the drivers side. The only difference are the brake lines under the car.
For the brake lines you need to slide in the large 4 bolt mounting plate from the side. I was able to unfasten the clip that holds the brake lines up near the 4 bolt plate, and gently pry them down a little bit for clearence. (you may want to use a drill stop to avoid them when drilling.)
For the Wireing Harness inside,there are tabs that hold the harness down, unfasten them and move the harness towards the middle of the car out of the way, You may need to duct tape them back or put a metal plate(like a drywall spreader scraper knife) in between them for protection.
Step 13...(For weld in only) After they are bolted good and tight,take your ViseGrips and clamp the tube to the pinch weld in between the spots you have grinded for welding. Now hammer the pinch weld up against the tube until it sits flush at each of the 1" spots that will be stitch welded every 6" and weld 1" every 6" down the sides. Clean up your welds and spot prime,and allow adequate time for primer to dry.
Step 14...Use Caulk gun with black Body seam sealer(if you can't find Black seam sealer,you may want to paint it with "Black Satin" paint) and replace the factory seam sealer that you removed,then seal all the way up each side around the tubes and in between the pinch weld. Make sure that it is sealed well around the mounting plates to prevent corrosion around the mounting holes that you have drilled, also a little primer around the hole is good. This will help prevent water and dirt from getting packed in betwneen and help prevent corrosion,plus it helps quiet the ride. Also it would be even better to apply rubberized undercoating on top after your done for greater protection.
Reverse steps 6 through 1 , Use the new P-brake fastener tabs for # 6.
Now paint with Black Satin and your Done!
Hope I didn't miss anything, If you figure out any other ideas or find I missed something,please let me know. Feel free to call if you have any questions or trouble.
Thanks and good luck!